Utricularia isn’t thriving questions

Shoggoths

Shoggoths

Carnivorous Plant Addict
Hey gang,

I have a quick question. My U. jamesoniana is sending a lot of flower stalks at the moment but the buds don't open.

Someone experienced this too ? Do the buds take a lot of time before opening (it seem more than a month since the 1st bud show itself) or is it something else ?

Do you know if something can be done to make the bud bloom (more / less light).

My U. jamesoniana actually sit 9 inches from 54W T5HO.

What do you think ?
 
There is a pattern of terrestrial Utric flowers developing seeds without opening (Cleistogamy).

Also, if conditions aren't optimal, flowers may abort.
 
P1020019.JPG P1020020.JPG
 
My utricularia bisauamata do this. All my other types that send up flowers open and they continue to produce them. But the bisquamata doesnt. It gets 1 inch long stalks with usually 3 buds and they dont seem to open then they die but look like they did open. If you figure it out let me know because i cant figure it out aha
 
I have this same issue with my U. jamesoniana. Did u get it from BCP? I have been thinking that it may be a clone-specific issue.
 
VarunA said:
I have this same issue with my U. jamesoniana. Did u get it from BCP? I have been thinking that it may be a clone-specific issue.
Click to expand...

Dang, when I saw that you had reply I wished you had a solution ...
I got it from Bonfield, I'll ask him were it come from.
 
This was awhile ago. Any change Shogg? I do know that my campy seems to take forever to move from bud to flower. Just curious what's happened. Does Bonfield have trouble with this under his conditions too?
 
I don't see it complete its bloom very often, but sometimes when recently moved to a lower-light location or overshadowed by moss growth, I've seen it flower properly.
 
I'm slowly aclimatizing a utricularia I just bought, but when I removed the plastic yesterday I saw what I think might be some fuzy stuff growing on one of my utricularia. I googled "utricularia fungus" but got nothing, so I'm curious if this has ever happened to anyone? Do utricularia even get fungal infections? I've got a little fan running over it now in the hopes it makes whatever it is go away, but I got no fungicides. I'll probably buy a sulfur-based fungicide tomorrow (about $13 at Canadian Tire), but my understanding is that it's primarily a preventative. I don't know where in Ottawa to get the Chlorothalonil, Tebuconazole, or Neem Extract recommended by the carnivorous plants experts to treat active infections. Any suggestions of what to do would be appreciated.
 
Which species?
Perhaps just remove obviously infected bits.
Put the rest on a coffee filter moistened with pure water.
Leave on a dish, in a humid, well lit terrarium ~ 20-25°C.
Observe.
Probably would not use chemicals.
 
Sandorsinii. Don't have any coffee filter or unoccupied terrarium presently argh. Also reluctant to remove what little of the plant I have given what I paid for it, but I'll consider it if it doesn't get better.
 
To get rid of the fungus, you can pull out a leaf and put it in distilled water, and once the leaf grows into a new plant, then you can put it into a fresh media away from the infected plant an start over your culture.
 
Yes, Utrics can get fungus. The most commonly encountered in cultivation is mildew on the leaves. Especially large leaves species like U.longifolia can get red spots or a whitish surface. It is annoying, but harmless, and easy to get rid of. It is easily cured with a spray of chinosol or another fungicide (e.g. those used for roses).
"Fuzzy stuff" is usually mould of organic matter of the substrate or a decaying dead insect. So before spending a lot of money on chemistry it is better to try to improve the growing conditions: Better, new substrate, better light and more air ventilation. Most Utrics are hard to kill. So an easy and common way to get of fungus and algae on semiaquatic and terrestrial species is to add 0.5mm of new substrate on top and new healthy leaves will grow through this leayer soon. Another safe and cheap way to solve fungus and insect problems that is worth a try is to submerge the pot for maybe 2 days. Drain and see if it helped.
To avoid loosing a plant by trying new untested methods you should always take some cuttings. U.sandersonii is a very easy and forgiving species that grows back from leaves and small peaces of stolons.
 
Hey,

i got a bunch of epiphytes from a guy 2 weeks back.
From this batch only a praetermissa seems to be doing not too great.
Any idea what happened to it ?
Did I by chance let it dry too much ?
51B018BC-9FD6-496E-9924-C0EB7CF1074D.jpeg
It’s in the same place as endresii alpina quelchii that all seem to be doing ok.
They are potted in netted pots in 1:1:1 sphagnum fine bark perlite, watered about once a day in 85%+ humidity, temps 18-25c
 
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