stevebradford

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Follow these basics for growing healthy amazing looking Sarracenia
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Starting seeds
Sarracenia seeds need to be cold stratified to properly germinate see HERE for cold stratification. Seedlings should be grown on a 50% peat 50% sand or perlite mix, preferably sand. Too loose or unstable of a potting mixture and seedlings can tip over or be washed away in rains. Seedlings should be repotted once a year or when they become crowded for fastest growth. Seedlings may also be fertilized by misting with a spray bottle diluted watered down fertilizer once a month.
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Planting
Almost all sarracenia should be planted in such a way so that the rhizome is 8 inches or more above any standing water. The reason for this is sarracenia roots can grow down to a length of around 8 inches and won’t grow well in over saturated soil below the water line.
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Pots
Sarracenia can still be grown in shorter pots where the rhizome is less than 8 inches above a water tray but you will need to adjust the way you water. In shorter pots the soil should still be kept moist but standing water in a tray or base should be avoided for any length of time. I prefer a ten inch tall pot standing in a two inch water tray.
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Soil
Soil can be manny different mixed for Sarracenia but it must be fertilizer free, match watering habits, kept moist but not wet, you should not be able to squeeze water out of the soil. Here I get a lot of rain, at times it doesn’t stop for a week, because I use the tray watering method I find the ten inch tall pots help prevent over saturation. This allows the excess rain water to drain through relatively quickly to the tray 8 inches below keeping the soil from becoming swampy. (My soil of choice is bark chunks and perlite)
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Sunlight
Most trumpet Sarracenia grow in open bogy grasslands that receive full sun all day. You should use your sunniest location for growing. I have not seen Sarracenia get too much sun, in fact the more light they get the better they will look.
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Temperature
Sarracenia need seasonal change, a growing season and a winter dormancy season. The growing season timing varies for different types of Sarracenia and is largely temperature dependent, some flava’s grow a higher elevation and will grow earlier in the season than say alata that grows at lower elevations. Winter dormancy should be three months at a temperature below ten degrees and above zero degrees, yes some Sarracenia can survive a freeze but they don’t need too and it will set them back.


Feeding
Outdoors Sarracenia don’t need to be fed they are very very capable of feeding themselves. You won’t need to feed adult Sarracenia unless you are growing indoors. They can be fed dropping a bit of fish food, cricket parts or meal worms down an open tube once a month.


Exceptions
There are two Sarracenia that some of these basics don’t apply to, Sarracenia purpurea and Sarracenia psittacina. Both of these can be grown almost floating in water, the 8 inch rule isn’t necessary. Sarracenia purpurea can handle a colder dormancy than 0 degrees but again it’s not necessary and your plant will thank you with more vigorous growth if it doesn’t freeze.
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Follow these basics for growing healthy amazing looking Sarracenia
View attachment 20524


Planting
Almost all sarracenia should be planted in such a way so that the rhizome is 8 inches above any standing water. The reason for this is sarracenia roots can grow down to a length of around 8 inches and won’t grow well in over saturated soil below the water line.
View attachment 20521


Pots
Sarracenia can still be grown in shorter pots where the rhizome is less than 8 inches above a water tray but you will need to adjust the way you water. In shorter pots the soil should still be kept moist but standing water in a tray or base should be avoided for any length of time. I prefer a ten inch tall pot standing in a two inch water tray.
(Insert picture of tray method)


Soil
Soil should be fertilizer free, match watering habits, kept moist but not wet, you should not be able to squeeze water out of the soil. Here I get a lot of rain, at times it doesn’t stop for a week, because I use the tray watering method with standing water I mix my soil with perlite at 50% peat 50% perlite in ten inch tall pots. This allows the excess rain water to drain threw relatively quickly to the tray 8 inches below keeping the soil from becoming overly saturated.
(Insert picture rhizome in moist soil)


Sunlight
Most trumpet Sarracenia grow in open bogy grasslands that receive full sun all day. You should use your sunniest location for growing. I have not seen Sarracenia get too much sun, in fact the more light they get the better they will look.
View attachment 20523


Temperature
Sarracenia need seasonal change, a growing season and a winter dormancy season. The growing season timing varies for different types of Sarracenia and is largely temperature dependent, some flava’s grow a higher elevation and will grow earlier in the season than say alata that grows at lower elevations. Winter dormancy should be three months at a temperature below ten degrees and above zero degrees, yes some Sarracenia can survive a freeze but they don’t need too and it will set them back.


Exceptions
There are two Sarracenia that some of these basics don’t apply to, Sarracenia purpurea and Sarracenia psittacina. Both of these can be grown almost floating in water, the 8 inch rule isn’t necessary. Sarracenia purpurea can handle a colder dormancy than 0 degrees but again it’s not necessary and your plant will thank you with more vigorous growth if it doesn’t freeze.
View attachment 20522
Excellent write-up! Thanks Steve!
 
I finally got around to repotting these seedlings. There were a heck of a lot more babies than I thought. I ended-up with 9 pots of 6 seedlings. Hope I didn't traumatize them too much. Should I give them a week or 2 to settle in before I start with a light fertilizer?


So it has almost been a month since I separated the seedlings into less crowded pots and they have done nothing. Sort of went into suspended mode. Anything I can do to get them to start growing again. I did start using Maxsea lightly.

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Raymond, I should have mentioned that I’ve found that sarr seedlings like to be potted up in a substrate that isn’t too compacted. If you pressed down on the medium before transplanting, the roots may be trying to grow like Dusted suggested. Looser medium makes it easier for roots to develop, which leads to better growth. At least that’s what I’ve found.
 
Raymond, I should have mentioned that I’ve found that sarr seedlings like to be potted up in a substrate that isn’t too compacted. If you pressed down on the medium before transplanting, the roots may be trying to grow like Dusted suggested. Looser medium makes it easier for roots to develop, which leads to better growth. At least that’s what I’ve found.

Hey Kevin. Thankfully, I didn't pack the soil in. I lightly placed the soil in the pot and then used a chopstick to make a hole and then tucked the soil around the roots. I then watered to ensure the soil settled down. Fingers crossed that they will soon...Pow! : )
 
Well, I forgot 2 bags of seeds in my fridge for 10 months! I thought they were toasted, as they were full of mold and I really did not think they were going to sprout, so much so that I planted each pack of seeds in one single pot, all crowded together. I was really sad because those seeds cost me 130$ CAD, ordered from Europe.

But I was very surprised to see the result. I think EVERY SINGLE SEED sprouted! wow!

So don't be afraid to keep them in stratification for a bit more time. I think 4 weeks is probably not enough. I never had such a good germination rate. So with a single pot of seeds, I managed to make 4 large pots and one medium.

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They are tough little things! I had seed I had stratified the pots sprouted in the spring, grew and baked all summer, I got sick they fried, were dry for a couple months, then got wet over winter and remaining seed sprouted following spring.

Glad they sprouted after such an expense
 
wow, yes they are tough. It just goes we should not give up on them.
I know some people put seeds in stratification for 4 weeks and not much sprouted, so they put them back in stratification another month or 2 and they finally sprouted. We just need to give them the proper time. And strangely, mold does not impair their quality it seems.
 
7 Month update…

Sarracenia lemon legacy
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Kept outdoors for the summer. Mr. Chipmunk dug up 2 of my seedlings, so this is the sole survivor.
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Sarracenia Byron’s 40” leucophylla
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I’ve been tray fertilizing (MaxSea) all of the seedlings, except the pot of lemon legacy I kept outdoors.
 
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